Monday, September 13, 2010

Bicycle Built for Three (or more)

Determined to leave gas powered transport behind (not so much out of environmental altruism but out of fear for our lives), we embarked on a bicycle shopping adventure that felt worlds away (well at least half a world away) from a Burlington bike shop.  In Hoi An, bicycle shopping is done at the market.  You buy your fish, you walk past dead chickens, you pick up a few dried squid for dinner, and you browse for a bike.  There they were just sitting under cover at the edge of the market - a merry multitude of colors and styles for us to peruse.

The first task was to find Nolan a bike. This was very exciting for him, because he's been hankering for his own brand new bike for a while (when you are number three there are an awful lot of previously used reasons to not justify a new set of wheels). Watching him choose and test bikes was every bit as entertaining for the local people in the market as it was for Nolan. Rin, the bike stall owner, explained that most kids here never have a kid-sized bike. They ride on the back (or front, or side) of their parent's  bike until they are big enough to pedal it themselves. Buying small bikes that will be outgrown is just not a financial reality for most people. Thus watching a pint-sized pedaler with an Evel Knievel glint in his eye do donuts in the market was yet another amusing diversion provided by the ATPF.

Once Nolan found a bike that worked well for him, he was bound and determined to get rid of the basket and the bell that he deemed absolutely too girly for his ride. We assured him that they could both be removed later, but that we thought a basket might really come in handy despite the potential threat to his masculinity. He acquiesced, and we moved on to Brianna.

Brianna is easy. From day one she has been all about comfort and function (as evidenced by her all-sweatpants-all-the-time wardrobe preference). So, for her, it was all about the comfiest seat. The fact that she ended up with psychedelic spokes and lots of fun accessories (like a basket, bell, light and locking wheel) was a bonus. She was ready to ride.

Foster was back at the hotel fighting intestinal demons (it begins), so John and I were next up in the bike shopping game. I may have mentioned before that we are kind of tall. Shopping for a bike at home can be a challenge for John, never mind trying to find a big enough frame in Vietnam. So, with a cheery attitude, he set out to find the cutest basket and sweetest bell on the lot. He tried one miniature bike that worked just fine, but then our friend Rin mentioned that he had more bikes at his house. The next thing we knew, we were weaving through a little alley behind Rin in search of his home. We arrived at a modest little doorway. Inside the house were hundreds of bikes parked in the living room. Then we climbed the stairs to the second floor and found dozens more there. I'm not sure where this guy sleeps, but I do know he's got some backup inventory.

Having walked us across town to show us this lot of bikes, we felt compelled to find something there. John and I chose the largest frames available, maximized the seat adjustment options and grinned. We chose orange and black. Rin agreed to meet us back at the market in five minutes with the bikes, and we set off in search of some money. Twenty minutes later, we sealed the deal and teetered off into traffic - adjusting to our one-speed wonders (thank goodness there are no hills for miles). Next stop...bicycle helmets...at the bike helmet stall across from the dead chickens of course!


       


Would you like a chicken with that bike?

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